Since most of us don’t live in naturally bird-friendly environs, bird owners almost always turn to the cage for their bird’s home. They are readily available at most pet shops and they come in a variety of colors, styles, and sizes. While color is purely up to you and your curtains, selecting the correct size and type of cage is very important. A general rule is that adult birds should be able to fully stretch their wings and exercise them vigorously while on their perch without harming themselves on fixtures or the cage itself. Your bird’s head shouldn’t be in any danger of touching the top of the cage, nor should the tail be touching the bottom or the sides. Canaries and other non-climbing birds do fine in cages with vertical bars, but cockatiels, lovebirds and parakeets like to utilize horizontal bars for climbing.
If your bird’s got climbing in his bones, the bars must be narrow enough to ensure that he cannot put his head through them (to prevent accidental hanging) but wide enough apart to allow the bird to scale up and down as he pleases. This also permits the owner to see the bird clearly and facilitates easy cage cleaning. The bars should also be appropriately thick to keep your bird from playing He-Man with his new home. Canaries, parakeets, and finches do fine with a thinner bar, but stronger birds such as cockatiels and parrots need a little more toughness to keep their walls intact.
The construction of the cage floor is equally important. Plastic bottoms are hygienic and generally recommended since they do not rust (which is not only unsightly but can also provide a place for disease organisms to develop). The bottom should also have high sides to help prevent excess feed, husks, and droppings from falling to your floor. Most cages marketed today have a slide-out bottom or clamps on the side of the cage for ease of cleaning. Those are the ones you want.
Perches are a bird’s version of living room furniture and should have a comfortable grip. Perches of different widths exercise the feet and relax the muscles, so be sure there are a few around the cage. The bird’s toes should not wrap completely around, however a perch that is too thin will result in discomfort for the bird and require frequent nail clippings. Park a perch in front of the seed and water hoppers and, since most birds enjoy the views, place another one up high. Again, ensure that your bird has noggin clearance. If he’s scraping his head on the ceiling, it’s too high. Also avoid putting perches or food and water dishes directly under one another, as droppings will accumulate on whatever’s below. And nobody wants droppings on their furniture.
As for the cage itself, place it as high as possible while still allowing you to get to and see your new buddy. Birds, by nature, prefer the higher altitudes. The height gives them a sense of security and allows them to see what is going on in their environment. But while you’re trying to find the best bird’s eye view, be absolutely sure to never place a cage in front of a window with direct sunlight. If it gets toasty, the bird will be unable to escape from the rays, which could result in heatstroke. Drafty areas such as open doors and windows should be avoided as well. If the room needs to be aired out, temporarily relocate your bird to some place a little calmer until the breeze settles down.