There’s a laid back “vacation” spot located in the River Oaks Shopping Center. It’s called Kona Crisp but don’t be fooled, it’s not a coffee shop or a traditional Hawaiian restaurant.
The day before my companion and I showed up to sample what Kona Crisp has to offer, I had a conversation with owner, Jeff Dollinger, to learn more about the philosophy behind this unique eatery.
Jeff explained that he had always wanted to own a restaurant but having little experience at the time, his wife suggested that he “get his feet wet” by operating a franchise operation. So, 12 years ago, Jeff opened TOGO’s in the same shopping center. It was here that Jeff hired Randy Bivins who was only 17 years old at the time. “He’s by far the most talented operations person going…he works magic with our service model,” said Jeff about his partner and operating manager of Kona Crisp.
The concept of Kona Crisp was developed with SCV in mind. Jeff wanted a place where customers would find excellent quality food, quickly, without spending a fortune.
Since it’s not exactly Hawaiian food per se, you might wonder what’s the connection to Kona. Jeff explained, “Hawaii represents everyone’s idea of vacation. It’s laid back, comfortable – a place to just relax – that’s what we want at Kona Crisp. We want people to feel like they’re on vacation.”
And Crisp refers to the fries, fried to perfection, the salads, crisp and crunchy, buns that are griddled toasted, crisp around the edges – it’s all about “texture”.
My companion and I enjoyed a sampling of some of the more popular dishes on the extensive menu. We simply ordered from a large selection of items at the counter and our choices were delivered to our table. The food comes up quickly and according to Jeff, “we offer customers better quality at 30 percent less cost, and because it’s not traditional table service, the customer has no compulsion to tip, so it makes the experience even more affordable.”
Kona Crisp is really about quality food in a vacation atmosphere. Many of the menu items are influenced by Jeff’s knowledge of the Islands where his grandfather lived; and, large emphasis is placed on preparation of the BBQ items. The high-quality meats receive a proprietary rub before they are cooked for 14 hours.
When I spoke with Jeff, he made a rather large claim…”it’s the best pulled pork sandwich you will ever eat.” Pretty braggadocios, but there’s a good chance he just might be right. I’ve actually been to a traditional Hawaiian luau (hosted by local residents) where the kalua pig was wrapped in banana leaves and steamed in a lava rock-lined imu (underground oven) for 24 hours. It was wonderful, but honestly no better than what we experienced eating Kona Crisp’s moist and tender pork. This succulent pork is served on a griddled, crisped bun, then topped with a sweet and pungent BBQ sauce and crisp coleslaw ($6.89). It is a truly delicious sandwich. And did I mention “big”?
We tried the Cal Kona Style burger ($7.39) made from a quarter pound of 100 percent quality fresh ground chuck (never frozen). It was topped with a sweet and tangy Island teriyaki sauce, fresh avocado, mayo and all the fixings.
The twice-cooked Belgian style fries ($2.49) that were served with the burger were great, but no match for the Sweet Potato Kettle Fries ($3.49) that accompanied the pork sandwich. You’ve just got to try these uniquely flavorful fries!
Kona Crisp’s signature Crunchy Peanut Thai Salad ($7.99) followed. With shredded romaine lettuce, cabbages, sliced chicken breast, julienne veggies and crisp homemade wontons, the salad was topped with peanuts, cilantro and their homemade Spicy Thai Peanut dressing. All fresh and crispy – and a good choice any time.
Our tasting concluded with a BBQ plate – the BBQ St. Louis-Style Pork Ribs ($13.99). The menu says, “fall-off-the-bone tender”. It’s true. These ribs are fantastic and we kept going on and on about the sauce – it’s that good! We ordered our plate with Sugarcane BBQ beans and Island Coleslaw, although there is a large number of other choices. You can even pick your sauce – Classic or Spicy style – and the dish is always served with a warm, grilled butter roll.
And one last suggestion. Although wine and beer are available, do not leave this restaurant without trying the coconut milkshake. My bet is, even if you don’t like coconut, you’re going to love this sweet concoction and after all, remember, you’re on vacation!
For more information on Kona Crisp or to discuss your catering requirements (for up to 2,000 people), call 661-287-3123 or visit www.thekonacrisp.com .
